Hot August nights (and days)

Genelle & Marg arrived by train last Monday from Lake Como via Milan. They fell for the spell of Eremo Paradiso immediately. It was good to hear about their adventures over pasta and a glass or two of vino before we all had an early night. They spent most of the next day getting reacquainted with wonderful Assisi (they have both been here before) until we picked them up and took them to the supermercato to experience Italian grocery shopping.

Laura explains the painting
technique

The weather has been heating up so it was just as well Marg took our guests early to the cool, peaceful Hermitage on Mount Subasio. It was hard to leave the tranquillity, but the arrival of tourists and pilgrims mid morning sent them home to collect Jan and head for the ceramic town Deruta.  Arriving at lunchtime, we headed first for the cool vaulted-ceilinged restaurant Taverna del Gusto (our favourite). The ladies were thankful that we only took them to our two favourite shops in the old town, as they were totally overwhelmed by the variety of beautiful, colourful ceramics.

Jan puts the finishing touches
on her masterpiece

We had arranged with Laura to show us around the factory of her uncle Senor Tomassini in the industrial area of Deruta. It was so good to catch up with her again and yes, for those of you who have met her, she is as beautiful as ever! Genelle, Marg D and Jan all had a go at painting a plate under patient instructions and encouragement from expert painter Laura. She was kind enough to put an outline first onto the plates so we had a starting point. There was much laughter that afternoon. Marg D and Genelle caught on quickly and did well whilst Jan… well… one day you may see her masterpiece when it’s displayed at home (probably in the twink)!

For a change Jan did the ‘Francis crawl’, taking our friends to San Damiano and the church at Rivotorto. The church proved to be the highlight as we were introduced to Franciscan friar from the Sydney suburb of Merrylands. Brother Jack had been in Rome for four years studying theology. He was visiting Assisi to assist at the church during the summer holidays.
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With Brother Jack from Merrylands in
Rivotorto church

What was so delightful was his enthusiastic desire to minister to the down and outs back in Sydney. Last year he and another brother spent four days around Kings Cross, taking only a sleeping bag. They begged for their food and were touched by the many people who readily helped them. He will finish his studies next year and will return to his Franciscan base at Kellyville.

Last stop of the morning was Santa Maria degli Angeli where we popped into the basilica to visit the tiny chapel enclosed in its cavernous interior which St Francis restored and where he loved to worship.

Italians sunbathing in a paddock
 on Mt Subasio

Returned home to pick up Marg who had prepared a delicious picnic lunch. We headed up Mount Subasio but found our favourite picnic spots overflowing with people. This forced us up higher to an open plain next to a small forest and set up our picnic under the shade of the pines. Mt Subasio is a popular summer destination for Italians. Genelle was gobsmacked by the hordes of Italians of all shapes and ages who had stripped down to their swimmers and were baking themselves on their sunbeds in the middle of the paddock!!!

A funicular with
a difference!

Gubbio was on Marg D’s ‘bucket list’ – since seeing our Italian holiday DVD, she really wanted a ride in the birdcage-style funicular. We arrived mid morning on Friday to a packed town and full carparks. Marg eventually found somewhere to park ten minutes walk out of town. We’ve noticed there have been crowds in Assisi as well all week, presumably Italians on holiday (August is when most Italians take a break and schools are out at the moment as well).  The weather was again very hot and there wasn’t even any relief up the mountain. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the ride and the typical Umbrian lunch at a restaurant at the top.

Gubbio is an impressive, interesting
and well preserved medieval town

Back in the town we visited a museum which houses the Eugubian Tablets. These seven bronze tablets bear inscriptions in three languages - Umbrian, Etruscan and Latin - and are dated between 250-150BC. They are extremely valuable, the only record of the ancient Umbrian language. Climbing to the roof we had a spectacular view over the city of Gubbio and surrounding plains and hills.  Bellissimo.


It was late when we returned home but we still had one more treat left; dinner at Birgitta and Piero’s. Again we were greeted with warmth and were treated to another Birgitta feast of prawns and bread, pasta with truffles, an assortment of cold meats and cheese, watermelon and then a dessert that Birgitta’s German mother had made for us. We returned home tired and very full.

It was not surprising that the next day we stayed at home and slept, read, ate, slept, read and ate again. Oh, it’s such a hard life!

Spello has many lovely
corners

Sunday morning and it was already hot when Marg A, Marg D and Genelle arose early to attend an English Mass at the Basilica San Francesco. Sitting in this magnificent church surrounded by frescoes to the glory of God and honouring Francis was very special. The charming nearby town of Spello was the next stop. This week had been their celebration of their Roman history and there were some ‘sets’ of ancient Roman scenes in the back streets and a couple of toga-attired locals.  Genelle and Marg D bought supplies for dinner, we managed a short rest, then we all trooped into town to see the musical Chiara di Dio (6^th time for Marg, 3^rd for Jan, and we enjoyed it still).  Our guests spread out an antipasti feast of cold meats, cheese, roasted vegetables, crusty bread and wine under the ripening grapes on the terrace. A perfect summer night and a perfect way to end their holiday in Umbria. 

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Dinner under the grapevine

Before taking them to the train this morning we squeezed in a drive up to Rocca Maggiore.  From the ruins of the old fort that towers above Assisi is a panoramic view of the valley and of this beautiful pink and white town.  The drive back through narrow lanes was exciting – they held their breath as Jan expertly negotiated the streets designed for carts not cars.  The two of us spent the rest of the hot day reading in front of the new fan M & G thoughtfully purchased for the house.

We then treated ourselves to dinner in Assisi. We sat on the terrace of the restaurant where we could watch the sun set and see the twinkling lights of Santa Maria and the many towns scattered across the wide valley and distant hills. The owner of the restuarant lives further up our track at Paradiso (we met him last year) and gave us free espresso to finish a delicious meal. It was still 30 degrees at 11pm when we arrived home.  Locals are over the heat too!