Another week in paradise...

Mmm, cappucino and gelato in Spoleto.  This is the life!

I can’t believe it’s been a week since we’ve added to the blog!  Lots to catch up on…

We handed the car keys to Graeme on Wednesday afternoon and he, Vicki and Liz ventured forth to nearby Spello, a charming town that’s a photographer’s paradise.  We suggested they return home via Mt Subasio (1260m) but they missed the turn and took a country road around the base of the mountain instead, still lovely they said. 

Thursday was dedicated to visiting sites important to St Francis.  An early start meant we had Eremo della Carceri to ourselves, the best way to see the beautiful hermitage tucked high above Assisi among oak wood forest.  This was a favourite area for Francis to come for solitary meditation and prayer.  A mist made the outdoor chapels quite surreal.

Eremo delle Carceri

The presence of God is almost tangible here.

Then into Assisi for breakfast of coffee and pastries sitting in the sun in the main piazza.  While Jan and I headed off to the Ospedale (hospital) again, this time because I had developed a painful eye infection (turned out to be conjunctivitis), the others checked out the magnificent Basilica di San Francesco built after his death in 1226. They were suitably entranced by the frescoes in the Upper and Lower churches, painted by some of the most famous artists of the time including Giotto. 

It was time to eat again (pizzas and vino rosso in a café tucked down a laneway). Then Graeme decided to walk down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to meet us at the basilica (cathedral) there, while the rest of us visited tranquil San Damiano, the church where Francis heard the divine call: “Go, Francis, and repair my falling house”.  He interpreted this to mean the crumbling chapel he was in, but eventually realised his mission was for rebuilding the wider church.  St Clare spent most of her life with her companions in the little convent Francis helped build next to the church.  The simple church is little changed for 800 years.

Francis looks over the valley at San Damiano

Now down to the Basilica of Santa Maria delgi Angeli (St Mary of the Angels) in the plain below Assisi.  Tucked inside the cavernous church is the tiny Porziuncola chapel, one of the places which St Francis loved most.  Built between 1569 and 1684, our travel guide describes the basilica as ‘a majestically uninspiring pile’. A bit cruel, but many may agree.   We met my cousin David at the train station late afternoon and headed home for vino and another superb meal of local produce.

Gubbio was our destination on Friday.  About an hours drive north, it’s a well preserved medieval city with charming streets, interesting architecture and my favourite feature, the funiculare, open cages which transport you up the steep hill behind the city, providing panaromic views of the city and surrounding countryside.  

A chilly wind meant jackets for a change

Jan and I had talked about the 850 year old saint that was in a glass coffin in the church at the top.  It was a surprise to see San Ubaldo on the floor near the altar, with a few guards (catholic bouncers?) close by to keep worshippers at bay.  It seems there was some anniversary which meant they were allowed a closer look.  Interesting.  Everyone loved the glass paintings of Massimo Cruciani and bought posters from his Gubbio store.  

San Ubaldo's lookin' pretty good for 850

The plunge back down into Gubbio on the funiculare

We sadly put Graeme and Vicki on a train to Rome the next morning to start an exciting bus and cruise boat tour which ends in Budapest in several weeks, then spent the rest of the day wandering the streets of Assisi.  We popped into another of Massimo Cruciani’s shops in Assisi only to find the artist was there.  Liz and David both purchased a painting – they capture the essence of Umbria so well.  Massimo was charming and sent us off with a bottle of Chianti with one of his designs on the label. 

Liz with Massimo

Lunch in Assisi

It was Liz’s turn to head off on Sunday and we delivered her to Perugia airport at lunchtime for her to fly home via London.  We then dropped David off to explore Spello while Jan and I stocked up on supplies at the supermercato, driving home over Mt Subasio, stopping briefly at tiny Collepino which is tucked on the top of a hill high above the valley.  Views from the top of the mountain are superb and we were lucky to have a clear day.

Afternoon light in a Spello lane

After a quiet morning, the rest of Monday was spent in Spoleto, another charming town about an hour south whose features include an ancient castle, an impressive aqueduct with a 240m span across the valley, a beautiful duomo (cathedral) with stunning frescoes, and great views and gelati (refer to photo at start of blog entry).  

Duomo in Spoleto



Aqueduct and castle in Spoleto

 Yet again we had a superb day, sunny and warm, about 24 degrees.  We have been so lucky with the weather.  Other than a cool wind and a light shower in Gubbio, it’s only rained at night.

Today we met a couple down the road who have a B&B where some of our guests will be staying in several weeks.  They are delightful, and have invited us to dinner tomorrow night.  Jan’s having a sleep now- accompanied by our neighbour's cheeky dog, I just discovered! 

Luna takes a nap with Jan

While I catch up on the blog (sorry it’s so long, I have too much time on my hands J), we’ve sent David off on his own to explore the area.  He’s never driven on the right side of the road and a manual car is a novelty, but after a short lesson and trial run, we think he’ll be fine.  I sent him off with a prayer!  Tomorrow we're off to Montepulciano in Tuscany. 

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