A brush with the law...

We have now seen another side of Italy.



Some of the lovely streets of Orvieto.



Tuesday started out as just another beautiful day in downtown Eremo Paradiso and we thought a drive in the country would be a good idea. So after a pleasant breakfast, we headed off to one of our favourite towns, Orvieto. We offered to let John Poll drive which he did very well.

We all enjoyed a day of eating and discovery and started our return journey around 5-ish. John again drove while the rest of us relaxed in the back. All was fine until we reached the track to our house (best described as a creek bed).

John had not had the privilege of driving UP to the house and we failed to advise him to keep up a steady pace. About two thirds of the way up he stalled. Now we need to tell you that our beautiful car has a strange manual handbrake so a handbrake start is not easy. Try as he might to drive forward the car insisted on slipping back down the track, unfortunately closer to the edge. When we realised it was in a precarious position, we thought it wise to get out as quickly as possible.  We then saw one rear tyre was in space.

We tried to push the car away from the edge but the tyres had no traction. Now what? Marg and John Reid headed up the track on foot to see if they could get some neighbourly assistance. No one home! Marg then did a marathon run down the track with super human energy. No one was home at the first house on the road or the second or the third, but ‘Our Lady of Eremo Paradiso’ was not daunted. Well on her way to Mr Grumpy’s she finally knocked on the door of a family at home. Of course they couldn’t speak English but somehow she made them understand that her auto had a molto problemo and she needed assistance. Father, son, daughter and Marg loaded into their small car and headed back to the rescue.

The track above the house
doesn't show the deep
trenches and ruts we have
to navigate in the stretch
down to the road

It took some time to discover the metal rod which had to be screwed into the bumper so to attach a rope to try and pull us out. No good. Their little car couldn’t get traction either. No worries mate! The father made a hurried call on his mobile and a friend in a 4 wheel drive soon appeared. After failing to pull the car again decided to turn his car around and pull in reverse. Praise God it worked! After many grazie’s, hugs and back slapping, Our Lady of Eremo Paradiso gave them a bottle of wine each (conveniently bought on our way home from Orvieto).  It was now about 8pm and dark.

That would have been enough excitement for one day but there was more. Strangely the front door was easily opened, a light was on in the Reid’s bedroom and the Poll’s clothes had been messed up in their bedroom. Yes, we had been burgled. Further investigation we discovered John Poll’s iPad had been stolen along with some jewellery, perfume and Janette’s pyjama top.  (We later discovered chicken had also been taken from the fridge!)  The thieves had forced the front door.

What should we do? We called Brigitte and Piero where we had dinner last week. She kindly called the Carabinieri (local police) in Assisi for us and they suggested we pay them a visit next morning. 

At this stage food was not high on the agenda but we managed to polish off a couple of bottles of wine and feasted on cheese, bread and marinated sardines.

Our trepidation about the Carabinieri visit was unfounded as the chap had excellent English and was very helpful.  He also had the loudest voice I think I’ve ever heard! We filed a report, he said he thought the culprits may have been some gypsies roaming the area in a black Polo.  Jan had seen a small dark car drive past the house the day before, then drive back again.  She now wonders if they were watching the house.

Now we had to find someone to repair the door and improve security.  As we were leaving the carpark in Assisi, we bumped into Brigitte (not literally), who called her husband to see if he could recommend anyone.  Piero rang a chap who lives in Paradiso. Marg drove down to catch him while he was home for lunch and he came up that afternoon to install new bolts.  He’ll return next week to add another lock. 




Nothing can spoil the beauty
of this place

 

Despite the loss of property, we have all felt God’s protection.  There was no major damage to the house, no vandalism, all things taken are replaceable and we were all safe.  Birgitte and Piero were so helpful, the policeman spoke English, and the door was repaired promptly by a lovely local chap.  We called Marg Pont to let her know, and reassured her that we have actually enjoyed some aspects of the experience! 





Meeting some of the locals...

Wednesday and off to delightful Montepulciano in Tuscany, a town of leather, wine, beautiful views, typical Umbrian cuisine (gnocchi and pasta for lunch with a good Montepulciano vino rosso).  But the highlight was helping David to choose an Italian outfit – terracotta pants, dark green polo shirt and tan leather belt.  The search for shoes was unsuccessful, but apparently he’s since found these in Venice. 

Eating (yet again) - David and I at Montepulciano

Sunset at Birgitte and Piero's -
 what a view!

Dinner at Piero and Birgitte’s was wonderful.  We were a little apprehensive about how we’d communicate, but Birgitte’s English is very good and Piero lacked confidence rather than English.  We were served a classic Italian meal of home grown tomato with buffalo mozzarella and basil, then ravioli with rich mushroom sauce, then veal cooked with fennel and a sprig of lavender (!) with green salad, then chocolate tart and lemon gelato, then cheese, grappa (home made, but don’t tell anyone – could have stripped off paint) and coffee with a swig of liquorice liqueur. Is your mouth watering?  They’ll be picking grapes to make their home wine in the next few weeks and they jumped at our offer to help.  Should be fun!  Hope our guests at the time think so too.

We delivered David to the train station Thursday morning so he could head off to the next stage of his holiday adventure then spent the rest of the day restocking supplies, cleaning the house ready for the next guests and fitting in a nap.  Late afternoon, John and Janette were driven to our door by Janette’s cousin who lives in Rome (he is a pilot, and John reckoned he likes to fly in the car too – tipped over 135kph often).  Jan collected John and Janice from the station at 8pm, then it was spaghetti bolognaise and a surprisingly late night as we all caught up. 

We had arranged a time to visit the lovely chap who has a ceramic factory in Deruta on Friday morning. His gorgeous niece Laura was on hand to show us around the factory and explain the many steps involved in producing a ceramic piece.  We all purchased something and then drove up to the old town for lunch at our favourite Trattoria Gusto.  After exploring a couple more shops, all were fading so headed home. 

We ordered more ceramics from Laura
and her family.



This potter can turn out a pot in less than a minute.  Very impressive!



90 years old and still has a steady hand and no glasses!



Our guests began to become acquainted with Assisi while Jan and I purchased more supplies from the Saturday morning market (basil plants to provide fresh herbs, plaited onions, delicious tomatoes) and then explored the shopping centre in Collestrada – 44 check outs at the supermarket/department store!  Great selection of food, including ‘legs’ of prosciutto and a fish monger would cut steaks from the whole sword fish on a table of ice.  Not something we’d see in Sydney. We spent the afternoon sitting under the grape vine on the terrace at Eremo Paradiso before feasting on fettucine with garlic, smoked salmon, pine nuts and fetta with salad.  Everything DOES taste better in Italy!  

It's now Sunday and we’re heading off soon into Assisi to see ‘Chiara di Dio', a musical about the life of St Clare.  I saw the short version of it 3 times when I was last in Assisi so I’m looking forward to the full show.  It is a very beautiful production.  A thunderstorm during the night has brought cooler temperatures and occasional showers.  Feeling very much like Autumn now.

Another week in paradise...

Mmm, cappucino and gelato in Spoleto.  This is the life!

I can’t believe it’s been a week since we’ve added to the blog!  Lots to catch up on…

We handed the car keys to Graeme on Wednesday afternoon and he, Vicki and Liz ventured forth to nearby Spello, a charming town that’s a photographer’s paradise.  We suggested they return home via Mt Subasio (1260m) but they missed the turn and took a country road around the base of the mountain instead, still lovely they said. 

Thursday was dedicated to visiting sites important to St Francis.  An early start meant we had Eremo della Carceri to ourselves, the best way to see the beautiful hermitage tucked high above Assisi among oak wood forest.  This was a favourite area for Francis to come for solitary meditation and prayer.  A mist made the outdoor chapels quite surreal.

Eremo delle Carceri

The presence of God is almost tangible here.

Then into Assisi for breakfast of coffee and pastries sitting in the sun in the main piazza.  While Jan and I headed off to the Ospedale (hospital) again, this time because I had developed a painful eye infection (turned out to be conjunctivitis), the others checked out the magnificent Basilica di San Francesco built after his death in 1226. They were suitably entranced by the frescoes in the Upper and Lower churches, painted by some of the most famous artists of the time including Giotto. 

It was time to eat again (pizzas and vino rosso in a café tucked down a laneway). Then Graeme decided to walk down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to meet us at the basilica (cathedral) there, while the rest of us visited tranquil San Damiano, the church where Francis heard the divine call: “Go, Francis, and repair my falling house”.  He interpreted this to mean the crumbling chapel he was in, but eventually realised his mission was for rebuilding the wider church.  St Clare spent most of her life with her companions in the little convent Francis helped build next to the church.  The simple church is little changed for 800 years.

Francis looks over the valley at San Damiano

Now down to the Basilica of Santa Maria delgi Angeli (St Mary of the Angels) in the plain below Assisi.  Tucked inside the cavernous church is the tiny Porziuncola chapel, one of the places which St Francis loved most.  Built between 1569 and 1684, our travel guide describes the basilica as ‘a majestically uninspiring pile’. A bit cruel, but many may agree.   We met my cousin David at the train station late afternoon and headed home for vino and another superb meal of local produce.

Gubbio was our destination on Friday.  About an hours drive north, it’s a well preserved medieval city with charming streets, interesting architecture and my favourite feature, the funiculare, open cages which transport you up the steep hill behind the city, providing panaromic views of the city and surrounding countryside.  

A chilly wind meant jackets for a change

Jan and I had talked about the 850 year old saint that was in a glass coffin in the church at the top.  It was a surprise to see San Ubaldo on the floor near the altar, with a few guards (catholic bouncers?) close by to keep worshippers at bay.  It seems there was some anniversary which meant they were allowed a closer look.  Interesting.  Everyone loved the glass paintings of Massimo Cruciani and bought posters from his Gubbio store.  

San Ubaldo's lookin' pretty good for 850

The plunge back down into Gubbio on the funiculare

We sadly put Graeme and Vicki on a train to Rome the next morning to start an exciting bus and cruise boat tour which ends in Budapest in several weeks, then spent the rest of the day wandering the streets of Assisi.  We popped into another of Massimo Cruciani’s shops in Assisi only to find the artist was there.  Liz and David both purchased a painting – they capture the essence of Umbria so well.  Massimo was charming and sent us off with a bottle of Chianti with one of his designs on the label. 

Liz with Massimo

Lunch in Assisi

It was Liz’s turn to head off on Sunday and we delivered her to Perugia airport at lunchtime for her to fly home via London.  We then dropped David off to explore Spello while Jan and I stocked up on supplies at the supermercato, driving home over Mt Subasio, stopping briefly at tiny Collepino which is tucked on the top of a hill high above the valley.  Views from the top of the mountain are superb and we were lucky to have a clear day.

Afternoon light in a Spello lane

After a quiet morning, the rest of Monday was spent in Spoleto, another charming town about an hour south whose features include an ancient castle, an impressive aqueduct with a 240m span across the valley, a beautiful duomo (cathedral) with stunning frescoes, and great views and gelati (refer to photo at start of blog entry).  

Duomo in Spoleto



Aqueduct and castle in Spoleto

 Yet again we had a superb day, sunny and warm, about 24 degrees.  We have been so lucky with the weather.  Other than a cool wind and a light shower in Gubbio, it’s only rained at night.

Today we met a couple down the road who have a B&B where some of our guests will be staying in several weeks.  They are delightful, and have invited us to dinner tomorrow night.  Jan’s having a sleep now- accompanied by our neighbour's cheeky dog, I just discovered! 

Luna takes a nap with Jan

While I catch up on the blog (sorry it’s so long, I have too much time on my hands J), we’ve sent David off on his own to explore the area.  He’s never driven on the right side of the road and a manual car is a novelty, but after a short lesson and trial run, we think he’ll be fine.  I sent him off with a prayer!  Tomorrow we're off to Montepulciano in Tuscany. 

-

Arezzo, Deruta and Orvieto

Men in tights, ladies in long dresses and knights with big helmets, that's how I would describe Arezzo. The weather was perfect and the sight colourful and spectacular as the medieval procession passed by us. What a great way for Vicki & Graeme to get taste of Italy.

Marg was our driver this time (we all want to drive our 'limo', a flash new Renault Scenic) and succeeded in taking us over the mountains coming home thanks to Minnie (alias our GPS). Poor Lizzie was just not up to coming but has seen hundreds of photos and videos all 4 of us took.     

On Monday we arrived at ceramics-capital Deruta shortly before lunch. This was good as we started spending money the moment we stepped foot in the first shop in the old town. Some shopkeepers remembered us fondly from previous visits, and we could see them rubbing their hands in glee as we mentioned 8 more weeks and guests.  We had lunch at our favourite cafe and ordered our favourite goats cheese salad with nuts ('nats' in the English menu) as a starter. Memories flooded back and all those who come will be taken there to get a taste bud fix!

We spent so much time in the old town that there wasn't time to head down to our old friend Mr Tomassini's factory. Something saved for another day. On the way home we stopped at a modern shopping centre. It has at least 50 shops and one almighty big kmarty thing. It was so big Marg, Graeme and Lizzy disappeared for over 1/2 hour just to buy light globes!!! On the way home Marg thought it a good idea to visit the fort at the top of Assisi to get the view at sunset. Graeme was the appointed driver this day and she failed to inform him that what goes up on narrow roads also has to come down along even more narrow roads. Getting through the first gate was a close shave (all side mirrors in please) and then watch out for pedestrians who have no where else to walk except the road. With sweat pouring from him Graeme negotiated the adventure well and now considers himself an initiated Italian!

The weather forecast said rain was possible on Tuesday but we were pleased it did not eventuate as we spent a day in the lovely city of Orvieto. Unfortunately the funiculare train was out of order so we had to catch a bus all the way up. A bus the size of a Ford truck then took us where we have never been before. Along even narrower roads, rounding sharp corners and missing them by a hair. Wow what precision driving. Finally we arrived and promptly had to have a coffee and pastry to recover. That done we headed for the Duomo. Marg & I have seen it many times but its magnificence still takes our breathe away. Marg added another 100 photos to the ones we've taken before of the cathedral (note from Marg - exaggeration, only 50!). Vicki & Graeme headed for a tour of the underground caves while Lizzy joined Marg inside.

I wisely remained outside so I could pat as many dogs as I could. Then it was time for lunch of course!  For the remainder of our time in Orvieto Vicki & Graeme climbed the clock tower to get a stupendous view over the city, Lizzy shopped, Marg walked around the maze of little streets taking still more photos and I went looking for more dogs.

Around 5 we met up again and after another coffee shot we headed back to the bus. Marg checked the destination with the bus driver in Italian who assured us this was the right bus to catch. For a while we had our doubts as we headed off in a completely different direction than the route we had entered the city. When we saw a sign to Arezzo we assumed the bus driver was either completely mad or was kidnapping us. Lizzy was about to panic when we turned into the main carpark of the railway station where our car was parked.  A longer-than-intended stop at a supermercato to stock up on wine and edibles, and I then very kindly took them the long route home, arriving around 8pm - dinner of antipasto and wine (of course), review of photos and then an early night.

Today we all spent a quiet morning at home and now Graeme has kindly taken Vicki and Lizzy to see Spello - and pick up some more wine!

Thank you to everyone who has sent messages of condolences. Marg was very fragile on Monday thinking about the funeral and has shed a few tears over the past days, especially when she has read your kind thoughts. Her sister Joan sent a detailed report about the funeral service which helped Marg feel she was a part of it. Hopefully the peace of Eremo Paradiso will bring her comfort.

I am now cooking roast pork for dinner! Wish you were here?

We've arrived!

Passing the hours at KL airport

Why does everything taste more delicious in Italy?

Cheese, wine and good company under the Umbrian sun.

3 hour wait at Sydney airport + 8 hour flight to Kuala Lumpur + 4 hours in KL airport + 12 hour flight to Rome + 4 hours to collect car and connect with Liz arriving on later flight from Rome + 2 hour drive to Assisi + 30 mins shopping for basic supplies + 20 mins driving and WE ARRIVED AT EREMO PARADISO AT LAST!  It's as beautiful as we remembered.  We've enjoyed seeing Vicki, Graeme and Liz quickly fall for the enchantment of this place.  Lunching on cheeses, bread, salami and cherry tomatoes under the grapevines was a great introduction to Italy.

I received sad news during the journey here however.  My sister called not long before we boarded in Sydney to let me know our elderly mother's condition had deteriorated, and when I arrived in KL, she rang to let me know mum had passed away that afternoon.  I was in a dilemma to know what to do, but decided that mum would have wanted me to continue my holiday.  My beautiful family have supported me in this.  They have kept me informed about the arrangements - the funeral will be in Monday - and we'll gather to scatter mum's ashes when I return.  We're all glad for mum's sake that she's gone. Life held little joy for her anymore.

Our first full day in Umbria was interesting.  Poor Liz had been suffereing from a raging sore throat for several days and needed to see a doctor, so she and I spent the morning at Assisi 'ospedale' (hospital) - we were very impressed by their efficiency and care.  She's now hoping the antibiotics kick in quickly.  Meanwhile Jan picked up some fresh fruit and vegies at the Saturday morning Assisi market while Vicki and Graeme started exploring Assisi.  There was much to-ing and fro-ing as we met up at different points. The usual weekend crowds didn't detract at all from Assisi's charms.  Graeme cooked up delicious meatballs and spaghetti and we were soon in bed.  (It's now 5.40am - I'm not yet back into a normal sleep pattern...)

Today we're heading for Arezzo and the spectacle of their 'palio', a medieval jousting event involving the whole town.  We're expecting lots of beautiful costumes and impressive knights on horses with their helmet bearers walking alongside. 

Off to bed now. Ciao.