Time to go

Marg and Jan showing off the necklaces Birgitte
made for us

Birgitte (the artist) adds some finishing touches to her masterpiece
while Andy, Tem and Pauline paint their simple designs
at Senor Tomassini's factory in Deruta

Saying goodbye to Andy and Tem (next to Jan) at Assisi
stations

It's 10.30pm and I should have packed my bag and be in bed, as we leave at 7.30am in the morning for Roma and the Aeroporto to take us home, but instead I'm saving all our precious photos and videos onto discs.  What have we been up to in the last week?  I'm going to fill in that blank when we get back home.  It's been full of fun and events - and sad goodbyes to our new friends Birgitte and Piero today (we've had 6 meals with them over the last 7 weeks, not including the scummy lunch among the grapevines), our neighbour who has generously donated his dog Luna to meet our need for canine company, and our ceramic friends in Deruta. 

Off to bed now...

Ciao, and I promise we'll write a final post soon for those of you who are kind enough to be interested.

Piero and Birgitte with Jan in the 'cantina' where OUR
wine is coming along nicely

Did we mention we love Italy?

Even though we are right in the middle of Italy, Win wanted to dip her feet in the Aegean Sea so we set off for Pesaro about 130kms to the north east in Marche. We drove across mountain ranges and past spectacular rock formations before entering the world of the seriously mad Pesaro-nians. For starters, where’s the sea? We meandered down several promising roads only to discover they simply led back to the same place. Finally we saw a sign to ‘il mare’ and finally found - to Win’s great delight - the sea. The day was grey and cool but she still took off her shoes and socks and paddled in the Aegean.

We then all enjoyed a meal of fresh fish and wine in a seaside ristorante, watching wild waves crashing on the rocks. On the way back we dropped in to see our new friends Piero and Birgitte where we shared a cup of coffee while planning our big day of grape picking on Saturday.

The next day we went to the Bastia markets, picking up some cheap gloves to protect our hands from the wasps which would be feasting on the grapes. We tried a new Assisi restaurant for Win’s farewell dinner. The food was go

od and the waitress lovely so we wondered why we were the only diners on a Friday night. We made enough noise to make up for it though.

The big day came. It rained!!! Grape picking was off but we joined Birgitte and Piero for dinner instead.  Carolyn impressed Birgitte hugely by making the pasta.  We laughed about Aussies supplying homemade pasta for Italians!

Sadly we said goodbye to Win on Sunday and to ease the pain took Carolyn and Eric to Spello and Mt Subasio. In the afternoon we met with Sister Jenny, a lady we had met on our last trip. We enjoyed hearing about her spiritual journey over - you guessed it - coffee and pastry.

Jan and I spent Monday preparing for our next guests while C&E took the car to check our the Eurochocolate festival in nearby Perugia. We met UK friends Andy and Mary Jones and 10 year old daughter Emily at the station at 10pm (way past our bedtime!!).

Up early everyone, we’re off to Orvieto!  Three bleary eyed Joneses staggered to the car and off we went. Poor Emily felt car sick (note: no more long car trips). The day was still fun and Marg finally found some cafe curtains for her sister Joan that we’d been looking for all over Umbria and Tuscany.

Back to the stazione to send Carolyn and Eric off to Venice the next day before heading off to Deruta. Emily and Mary were thrilled to get the opportunity to paint something at the ceramic factory (Marg and Carolyn had done this the week before) and Senor Tomassini enjoyed us spending some more money.

We met Marg Pont’s friend Carla for lunch at a restaurant we had not tried before. The food was wonderful.  Carla taught Emily how to eat spaghetti, and we invited the waitress to stay with us if she comes to Australia.

We showed Mary and Andy some of our favourite places over the 4 short days they were here.  They particularly loved the Hermitage on Mt Subasio and a picnic in the forest afterwards (weather is cooler now but was warm enough for this outdoor activity). 

We put our UK friends on the train yesterday morning - two days to ourselves until the last group arrive on Monday.  Our Italian friends rang the night before inviting us to pick grapes on Saturday - we were hoping for a people-free day, but we said yes, of course.  It turned out to be one of the best days of our trip!  Imagine us slowly working our way along the grape vines in the mild autumn sunshine, snipping off fat bunches of grapes and trimming off ones the wasps had munched on, stopping for a picnic lunch of crusty bread, hunks of hard cheese, black olives, truffle salami and wild boar sausages, washed down with red wine, followed by strong coffee (yes, Birgitte had brought the coffee maker and a gas burner!) and 'dolce' - small custard filled pastries.  After five hours of picking the tractor was loaded high.  Back at the house, we unloaded the grapes while Piero fed them through the stalk stripper machine.  Out came 500 litres of juice, much to their surprise.  The day finished perfectly with home made lentil soup with toasted bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil, followed by sweet lamb chops and char grilled capsicum.  Is your mouth watering?  Italians know how to make simple and delicious food.  

It was such a lovely day and we've established a beautiful friendship with these two delightful people.  We went to bed smiling and slept for 10 hours!  God is showering us with so many special experiences this time.  Today was deliciously quiet - washing, reading, an afternoon nap, and time to share hopes and dreams. 

Only a week to go!  We’re looking forward to introducing Umbria to Warren, Pauline and Rob this week.

These are a few of our favourite things

The owner of this baby was
happy to show him off

Sunset from Rocca Maggiore (Fort)
at the top of Assisi

 Old and dear friends Jennifer Brownlow and then Win Morgan replaced departing guests and we embarked on another adventure together.  Both Win and Jen had spent time here before (this is Win’s third visit) so we’ve had a very relaxed week.

We thought we’d share a few of our favourite Italian things in this blog…

Morning on Mt Subasio
from our bedroom window

• waking to the different moods of Mount Subasio and the Paradiso valley
• coming down for breakfast to the sound of the 9 o’clock bells from the church across the valley

• the antics of the baby burro (donkey) at the agriturismo (farm stay) at the end of the drive
• gelato in flavours such as fig and walnut, chocolate and orange, and hazelnuts and chocolate (baci)
• coffee with a mouthwatering pastry (NOT the ones filled with nutella!)
• sunsets from Mount Subasio and the fort above Assisi
• reading or sipping vino on the terrace under the grapevine in the dappled sunshine

• getting to know some local Italians and so feeling a bit less of a tourist
• almost ALL Italian food
• picking figs, grapes and apples around the house

Janice and John were
avid fig hunters!



Can't get fresher than this

• returning hospitality to Birgitte and Piero (we enjoyed his grappa more this time, which is a worry…)



Piero and Birgitte (either side of Jan)



• buying plaited onions and garlic at the markets in town piazzas
• eating roast pork rolls at the St Francis fair
• absorbing the tranquillity of the hermitage where Francis spent many hours alone with God
• the rumble and squeak of old tractors ploughing the steep fields surrounding the house
• Luna the lunatic dog from next door
• delight when Marg’s Italian is understood
• wandering the streets of Assisi at different times of the day
• spectacular views of olive groves, vineyards and ancient farm houses among rolling hills
• discovering new towns or new corners in familiar ones
• sharing all these experiences with friends

Porchetta panini (roast pork rolls) - yum!

Win and Jennifer
wondering at the simplicity
of a 'prayer cell' of a
friar of St Francis at the hermitage

Gelati in Cortona - far right is Isobel,
a lovely English tourist
 we spent some time with

Sanity returns

After all that excitement, life has taken a somewhat slower pace.

• Thursday: Marg chose to stay home as the rest of us trotted off to Montepulciano (Tuscany). After the compulsory cup of coffee and pastry, shopping began in earnest. John Reid bought a cute hat that matched his shirt perfectly then headed for the shoe shop where he bought not 1 but 2 pairs of shoes Italiano style.

John Reid shows off his new hat

The 4 J's (John, Janette, Janice and John)

Others in our party bought a few things, we had lunch and then John Poll bought a delicious (expensive) Brunello red wine and Jan bought the mandatory 3 litre bottle. For those who may not know, Montepulciano is the town of leather and wine!!!!



Spello



• Friday: Spello. Marg drove up a street she shouldn’t have to kindly drop us all in the central piazza. Spello is a picturesque little town and everyone enjoyed walking along the main streets, ducking in and out of shops and naturally stopping for coffee and pastry en route.



We were treated to a wedding
in the cathedral at Spoleto,
beautiful Italian bride with a
pommie accent!



• Saturday: I stayed home this time while Marg drove the mob Spoleto.  Each time we go to that town we find a different place to park (accidently, we just get confused on the way in).  This time Marg parked in a newish car park and discovered a series of escalators which took them to the top of the town – 8 in fact!

• Sunday: Assisi.  It’s not possible to spend too much time in this fascinating city.



The main piazza at Cortona



• Monday: we spent several hours wandering around the streets, walls and shops one of the prettiest towns in Tuscany, Cortona. Marg made the hike this time up to the cathedral and fort at the top of the hill, both very interesting and the views were breathtaking.  Italians must have strong legs and hearts to live in these towns! 




The refectory at San Damiano convent

 

• Tuesday: we dropped our friends in Assisi and they walked down to the Santa Maria degli Angeli cathedral in the valley below to see the tiny Porziuncola chapel inside which St Francis helped to rebuild and where he died.  

Pizza and coffee in Bevagna

• Wednesday: San Damiano church where Francis first heard the call from Jesus to rebuild his church was the last ‘St Francis crawl’ destination for our friends, and then Marg took them to Bavagna, an old walled city in the valley (no hills, bliss!) which was most interesting as it is still very lived in – not as touristy as many of the towns. 

It was our friends last night so we had dinner at our favourite Assisi restaurant, La Palotta.  While we were filling in time, Jan got talking to an English lass who was in town for 5 days on her own, so we invited her to join us.  We had a lovely evening with scrumptious Umbrian fare.

Rambling in Paradiso

• Thursday: we bid sad goodbye to ‘The 4 J’s’ in the morning. It was a beautiful day – sunny, about 20 degrees – perfect for a walk.  A short stroll up the track turned into a 4-5km hike as Marg talked me into doing the full loop back to the house, a trek of about 2 hours.   Our friends at Curves would have been impressed with the way we managed the hills!  The scenery here is so lovely, it was a joy to ramble through it.  We picked Jennifer up at the station at 3.30, and tucked into taglietelle bolognaise and checked out her photos of Turkey before bed.

Jan getting a dog-fix
from a local farm

PS.  Apologies to those who have tried adding comments to the blog and can't do it easily.  You have to sign up for a google account to do this apparently, completely free of charge but a nuisance.  We are reading our emails – janmargaret@optusnet.com.au.
PPS. Also apologies for the sometimes crazy layout of the blog.  Controlling the placement of photos and text is impossible.  Those of you who know Marg will know it's really annoying her!  Still, it's free....

A brush with the law...

We have now seen another side of Italy.



Some of the lovely streets of Orvieto.



Tuesday started out as just another beautiful day in downtown Eremo Paradiso and we thought a drive in the country would be a good idea. So after a pleasant breakfast, we headed off to one of our favourite towns, Orvieto. We offered to let John Poll drive which he did very well.

We all enjoyed a day of eating and discovery and started our return journey around 5-ish. John again drove while the rest of us relaxed in the back. All was fine until we reached the track to our house (best described as a creek bed).

John had not had the privilege of driving UP to the house and we failed to advise him to keep up a steady pace. About two thirds of the way up he stalled. Now we need to tell you that our beautiful car has a strange manual handbrake so a handbrake start is not easy. Try as he might to drive forward the car insisted on slipping back down the track, unfortunately closer to the edge. When we realised it was in a precarious position, we thought it wise to get out as quickly as possible.  We then saw one rear tyre was in space.

We tried to push the car away from the edge but the tyres had no traction. Now what? Marg and John Reid headed up the track on foot to see if they could get some neighbourly assistance. No one home! Marg then did a marathon run down the track with super human energy. No one was home at the first house on the road or the second or the third, but ‘Our Lady of Eremo Paradiso’ was not daunted. Well on her way to Mr Grumpy’s she finally knocked on the door of a family at home. Of course they couldn’t speak English but somehow she made them understand that her auto had a molto problemo and she needed assistance. Father, son, daughter and Marg loaded into their small car and headed back to the rescue.

The track above the house
doesn't show the deep
trenches and ruts we have
to navigate in the stretch
down to the road

It took some time to discover the metal rod which had to be screwed into the bumper so to attach a rope to try and pull us out. No good. Their little car couldn’t get traction either. No worries mate! The father made a hurried call on his mobile and a friend in a 4 wheel drive soon appeared. After failing to pull the car again decided to turn his car around and pull in reverse. Praise God it worked! After many grazie’s, hugs and back slapping, Our Lady of Eremo Paradiso gave them a bottle of wine each (conveniently bought on our way home from Orvieto).  It was now about 8pm and dark.

That would have been enough excitement for one day but there was more. Strangely the front door was easily opened, a light was on in the Reid’s bedroom and the Poll’s clothes had been messed up in their bedroom. Yes, we had been burgled. Further investigation we discovered John Poll’s iPad had been stolen along with some jewellery, perfume and Janette’s pyjama top.  (We later discovered chicken had also been taken from the fridge!)  The thieves had forced the front door.

What should we do? We called Brigitte and Piero where we had dinner last week. She kindly called the Carabinieri (local police) in Assisi for us and they suggested we pay them a visit next morning. 

At this stage food was not high on the agenda but we managed to polish off a couple of bottles of wine and feasted on cheese, bread and marinated sardines.

Our trepidation about the Carabinieri visit was unfounded as the chap had excellent English and was very helpful.  He also had the loudest voice I think I’ve ever heard! We filed a report, he said he thought the culprits may have been some gypsies roaming the area in a black Polo.  Jan had seen a small dark car drive past the house the day before, then drive back again.  She now wonders if they were watching the house.

Now we had to find someone to repair the door and improve security.  As we were leaving the carpark in Assisi, we bumped into Brigitte (not literally), who called her husband to see if he could recommend anyone.  Piero rang a chap who lives in Paradiso. Marg drove down to catch him while he was home for lunch and he came up that afternoon to install new bolts.  He’ll return next week to add another lock. 




Nothing can spoil the beauty
of this place

 

Despite the loss of property, we have all felt God’s protection.  There was no major damage to the house, no vandalism, all things taken are replaceable and we were all safe.  Birgitte and Piero were so helpful, the policeman spoke English, and the door was repaired promptly by a lovely local chap.  We called Marg Pont to let her know, and reassured her that we have actually enjoyed some aspects of the experience! 





Meeting some of the locals...

Wednesday and off to delightful Montepulciano in Tuscany, a town of leather, wine, beautiful views, typical Umbrian cuisine (gnocchi and pasta for lunch with a good Montepulciano vino rosso).  But the highlight was helping David to choose an Italian outfit – terracotta pants, dark green polo shirt and tan leather belt.  The search for shoes was unsuccessful, but apparently he’s since found these in Venice. 

Eating (yet again) - David and I at Montepulciano

Sunset at Birgitte and Piero's -
 what a view!

Dinner at Piero and Birgitte’s was wonderful.  We were a little apprehensive about how we’d communicate, but Birgitte’s English is very good and Piero lacked confidence rather than English.  We were served a classic Italian meal of home grown tomato with buffalo mozzarella and basil, then ravioli with rich mushroom sauce, then veal cooked with fennel and a sprig of lavender (!) with green salad, then chocolate tart and lemon gelato, then cheese, grappa (home made, but don’t tell anyone – could have stripped off paint) and coffee with a swig of liquorice liqueur. Is your mouth watering?  They’ll be picking grapes to make their home wine in the next few weeks and they jumped at our offer to help.  Should be fun!  Hope our guests at the time think so too.

We delivered David to the train station Thursday morning so he could head off to the next stage of his holiday adventure then spent the rest of the day restocking supplies, cleaning the house ready for the next guests and fitting in a nap.  Late afternoon, John and Janette were driven to our door by Janette’s cousin who lives in Rome (he is a pilot, and John reckoned he likes to fly in the car too – tipped over 135kph often).  Jan collected John and Janice from the station at 8pm, then it was spaghetti bolognaise and a surprisingly late night as we all caught up. 

We had arranged a time to visit the lovely chap who has a ceramic factory in Deruta on Friday morning. His gorgeous niece Laura was on hand to show us around the factory and explain the many steps involved in producing a ceramic piece.  We all purchased something and then drove up to the old town for lunch at our favourite Trattoria Gusto.  After exploring a couple more shops, all were fading so headed home. 

We ordered more ceramics from Laura
and her family.



This potter can turn out a pot in less than a minute.  Very impressive!



90 years old and still has a steady hand and no glasses!



Our guests began to become acquainted with Assisi while Jan and I purchased more supplies from the Saturday morning market (basil plants to provide fresh herbs, plaited onions, delicious tomatoes) and then explored the shopping centre in Collestrada – 44 check outs at the supermarket/department store!  Great selection of food, including ‘legs’ of prosciutto and a fish monger would cut steaks from the whole sword fish on a table of ice.  Not something we’d see in Sydney. We spent the afternoon sitting under the grape vine on the terrace at Eremo Paradiso before feasting on fettucine with garlic, smoked salmon, pine nuts and fetta with salad.  Everything DOES taste better in Italy!  

It's now Sunday and we’re heading off soon into Assisi to see ‘Chiara di Dio', a musical about the life of St Clare.  I saw the short version of it 3 times when I was last in Assisi so I’m looking forward to the full show.  It is a very beautiful production.  A thunderstorm during the night has brought cooler temperatures and occasional showers.  Feeling very much like Autumn now.

Another week in paradise...

Mmm, cappucino and gelato in Spoleto.  This is the life!

I can’t believe it’s been a week since we’ve added to the blog!  Lots to catch up on…

We handed the car keys to Graeme on Wednesday afternoon and he, Vicki and Liz ventured forth to nearby Spello, a charming town that’s a photographer’s paradise.  We suggested they return home via Mt Subasio (1260m) but they missed the turn and took a country road around the base of the mountain instead, still lovely they said. 

Thursday was dedicated to visiting sites important to St Francis.  An early start meant we had Eremo della Carceri to ourselves, the best way to see the beautiful hermitage tucked high above Assisi among oak wood forest.  This was a favourite area for Francis to come for solitary meditation and prayer.  A mist made the outdoor chapels quite surreal.

Eremo delle Carceri

The presence of God is almost tangible here.

Then into Assisi for breakfast of coffee and pastries sitting in the sun in the main piazza.  While Jan and I headed off to the Ospedale (hospital) again, this time because I had developed a painful eye infection (turned out to be conjunctivitis), the others checked out the magnificent Basilica di San Francesco built after his death in 1226. They were suitably entranced by the frescoes in the Upper and Lower churches, painted by some of the most famous artists of the time including Giotto. 

It was time to eat again (pizzas and vino rosso in a café tucked down a laneway). Then Graeme decided to walk down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to meet us at the basilica (cathedral) there, while the rest of us visited tranquil San Damiano, the church where Francis heard the divine call: “Go, Francis, and repair my falling house”.  He interpreted this to mean the crumbling chapel he was in, but eventually realised his mission was for rebuilding the wider church.  St Clare spent most of her life with her companions in the little convent Francis helped build next to the church.  The simple church is little changed for 800 years.

Francis looks over the valley at San Damiano

Now down to the Basilica of Santa Maria delgi Angeli (St Mary of the Angels) in the plain below Assisi.  Tucked inside the cavernous church is the tiny Porziuncola chapel, one of the places which St Francis loved most.  Built between 1569 and 1684, our travel guide describes the basilica as ‘a majestically uninspiring pile’. A bit cruel, but many may agree.   We met my cousin David at the train station late afternoon and headed home for vino and another superb meal of local produce.

Gubbio was our destination on Friday.  About an hours drive north, it’s a well preserved medieval city with charming streets, interesting architecture and my favourite feature, the funiculare, open cages which transport you up the steep hill behind the city, providing panaromic views of the city and surrounding countryside.  

A chilly wind meant jackets for a change

Jan and I had talked about the 850 year old saint that was in a glass coffin in the church at the top.  It was a surprise to see San Ubaldo on the floor near the altar, with a few guards (catholic bouncers?) close by to keep worshippers at bay.  It seems there was some anniversary which meant they were allowed a closer look.  Interesting.  Everyone loved the glass paintings of Massimo Cruciani and bought posters from his Gubbio store.  

San Ubaldo's lookin' pretty good for 850

The plunge back down into Gubbio on the funiculare

We sadly put Graeme and Vicki on a train to Rome the next morning to start an exciting bus and cruise boat tour which ends in Budapest in several weeks, then spent the rest of the day wandering the streets of Assisi.  We popped into another of Massimo Cruciani’s shops in Assisi only to find the artist was there.  Liz and David both purchased a painting – they capture the essence of Umbria so well.  Massimo was charming and sent us off with a bottle of Chianti with one of his designs on the label. 

Liz with Massimo

Lunch in Assisi

It was Liz’s turn to head off on Sunday and we delivered her to Perugia airport at lunchtime for her to fly home via London.  We then dropped David off to explore Spello while Jan and I stocked up on supplies at the supermercato, driving home over Mt Subasio, stopping briefly at tiny Collepino which is tucked on the top of a hill high above the valley.  Views from the top of the mountain are superb and we were lucky to have a clear day.

Afternoon light in a Spello lane

After a quiet morning, the rest of Monday was spent in Spoleto, another charming town about an hour south whose features include an ancient castle, an impressive aqueduct with a 240m span across the valley, a beautiful duomo (cathedral) with stunning frescoes, and great views and gelati (refer to photo at start of blog entry).  

Duomo in Spoleto



Aqueduct and castle in Spoleto

 Yet again we had a superb day, sunny and warm, about 24 degrees.  We have been so lucky with the weather.  Other than a cool wind and a light shower in Gubbio, it’s only rained at night.

Today we met a couple down the road who have a B&B where some of our guests will be staying in several weeks.  They are delightful, and have invited us to dinner tomorrow night.  Jan’s having a sleep now- accompanied by our neighbour's cheeky dog, I just discovered! 

Luna takes a nap with Jan

While I catch up on the blog (sorry it’s so long, I have too much time on my hands J), we’ve sent David off on his own to explore the area.  He’s never driven on the right side of the road and a manual car is a novelty, but after a short lesson and trial run, we think he’ll be fine.  I sent him off with a prayer!  Tomorrow we're off to Montepulciano in Tuscany. 

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